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NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
WAT PAH WANA POTIYAHN
MEANING OF NAME: "Forest monastery of enlightened wisdom"
OTHER NAMES: Wat Keu-an ("Dam monastery") Wat Koh ("Island monastery")
ADDRESS: Dtumbol Nikom #1, Amper Phibun Mangsahan, Ubon Ratchathani 34110
DIRECTIONS: Located on a peninsula on the northeast shore of Sirindhorn Reservoir about 70 km east of Ubon Ratchathani and only 5 km from the Laotian border. (This large reservoir is named after the king's daughter, the crown princess.) From Ubon, take a bus east 45 km to Phibun Mangsahan (a "tour" bus from Bangkok also goes here), then take a songtaew east 20 km to Nikom #1; get off at Wana Potiyahn boat landing (ask in advance to be let off here -- you can't see the landing from the road). Ask to be taken across the lake to the monastery (give the boat boys a 20-baht tip), then follow a road 3/4 km to the central area.
MEDITATION SYSTEM: Similar to Wat Pah Nanachat.
TEACHING METHOD: Similar to Wat Pah Nanachat.
TEACHER:
LANGUAGE: This is a Thai monastery. The abbot gives Dhamma talks and instruction in Thai. He recommends that visitors know or be willing to learn the language. He will answer questions in English.
DESCRIPTION: A dense growth of dry tropical forest covers most of the monastery's 2,500-rai (1000-acre) area. The forest is one of the finest of its type in the region. Monks have taken an active role in conservation and protection of the plant and animal life. Denizens of the forest include wild boar, langur (a type of monkey), mouse deer, forest fowl, pheasant, many other birds, and many species of snakes (though rarely seen).
Wat Pah Wana Potiyahn is a branch of Ajahn Chah's Wat Nong Pah Pong. A sala, kitchen, scattered kutis, and a boat house are the main buildings. All water has to be hauled from wells. Solar cells power a lighting system for the common areas.
SIZE: monks and novices: about 10; nuns: 0; laypeople: a few
DAILY ROUTINE: Similar to Wat Pah Nanachat
FOOD: Good northeastern fare. Supplies may be limited, especially in the hot season. Visitors can also supply their own food and prepare it in the kitchen. The community eats one meal a day.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Individual kutis for monks, novices, and laypeople. Bathing is done at wells; toilets are Asian-style.
WRITE IN ADVANCE?: Not necessary
ORDINATION: Not available
OTHER INFORMATION: A good place to practice if you are looking for solitude in a remote forest monastery. Visitors need to have their own practice, be self-reliant, and be willing to learn Thai. Some malaria exists here, so take care to use repellent and netting. Because this is a frontier area near Laos, women should only come and stay in groups of 2 or more. Laypeople observe 8 precepts. Laymen must shave their heads after 3 days. Ajahn Puriso, the former abbot, has left the monkhood. Conditions may or may not be suitable for Westerners now. Ask first at Wat Pah Nanachat.
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WAT DOI DHAMMA CHEDI
MEANING OF NAME: "The hill monastery of the Dhamma Chedi"
ADDRESS: Tambol Tong Khob, King Amper Khok Sri Suphan, SakhonNakhon 47280
DIRECTIONS: Located 676 km northeast of Bangkok, 263 km north of Ubon Ratchathani, and 29 km southeast of Sakhon Nakhon. (Buses connect Sakhon Nakhon with Bangkok and most northeastern cities.) From Sakhon Nakhon, take a local bus or songtaew southeast 23 km on Hwy. 223 toward That Phanom; ask to be let off at Khok Sri Supan. Buses from Ubon Ratchathani to Sakhon Nakhon can also let you off here. Arrange transport south 6 km to Wat Doi Dhamma Chedi. Nearing the wat, you'll see rocky hills, then a concrete road that leads inside the grounds.
MEDITATION SYSTEM: Ajahn Baen has experience with many systems. He most often teaches anapanasati or mental repetition of "Buddho" to establish concentration; one then contemplates the body and mind. Meditators are free to use their own techniques.
TEACHING METHOD: Occasional lectures and by asking questions.
TEACHER: Ajahn Baen, abbot (Thai; age 63)
LANGUAGE: Visitors must speak good conversational Thai. Theteacher and most other monks do not know English.
DESCRIPTION: The wat is built on and around a small wooded hill with views across the Maekhong Plain. The many sandstone boulders and outcrops add to the beauty. The main sala, at the end of the road, has an upstairs room used for meetings and eating; Ajahn Baen talks with visitors in the open area downstairs. Follow trails up the hill to see a large reclining Buddha and the //bot//.
SIZE: monks: 20-45; novices: 3-5; nuns: sometimes a few visiting; laypeople: sometimes a few visiting
DAILY ROUTINE: Mostly left up to individual. Ajahn Baen encourages everyone to practice diligently. Regular group activities include pindabat, the meal, an afternoon drink, and work periods. Ajahn Baen holds meetings when appropriate, most often during the Rains Retreat and other occasions when new monks arrive. Chanting and group meditation take place during the Rains Retreat in mornings and occasionally in evenings (if a meeting is held).
FOOD: Very good northeastern style. Monks and novices go on pindabat; other food comes from the kitchen and donors. The community has one meal in the morning, served and eaten with the fingers. Monks, novices, and pakows eat upstairs in the main sala. Laypeople eat above the kitchen.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Monks and novices stay in kutis tucked around rock outcrops in the central area or scattered in the surrounding woods. Laymen can stay in kutis if available. Laypeople have 2 large buildings east of the main sala; one for women and nuns, the other for men. Women may feel more comfortable if arriving and staying in groups of 2 or more. Bathrooms, separate for men and women, have showers and Asian-style toilets. Bathrooms and large buildings have electricity; most kutis do not.
WRITE IN ADVANCE?: Recommended. The abbot likes to know such things asyour name, country, and profession.
ORDINATION: Can be requested. One normally spends some months as a pakow before ordination as a novice or monk.
OTHER INFORMATION: Ajahn Baen places strong emphasis on practice. Disciplinary code and temple rules are of great importance too. Laypeople observe 8 precepts and dress modestly. One should avoid unnecessary conversation or wandering about too much.
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WAT PAH BAN THAT
MEANING OF NAME: "Forest monastery of Ban That"
ADDRESS: c/o Songserm Service, 89 Phosi Road, Udon Thani 41000
DIRECTIONS: Located 564 km northeast of Bangkok and 16 km southwest of Udon Thani. Take a songtaew, local bus, or taxi from Udon Thani south 8 km to Ban Gum Kling, then turn southwest 7 km to Ban That and continue one km to the wat. Some songtaews go direct to Ban That from Udon and may even drop you off at the wat entrance. Samlor drivers in Udon usually know where the songtaews depart.
Several fast trains provide daily service to Udon, including an overnight express which offers comfortable 2nd class sleepers. Many air-conditioned buses with reclining seats depart Bangkok's Northern (Moh Chit) Bus Terminal for the day or overnight journey. Ubon Ratchathani and other northeastern cities also have good bus connections with Udon.
THAI offers a daily flight from Bangkok to the airport just south of Udon.
MEDITATION SYSTEM: Anapanasati, mental repetition of "Buddho" (or "Dhammo" or "Sangho"), or contemplation of a part of the body is used to gain calm. The practice of samadhi has 3 levels. First level is characterized by short periods of calm. Second level has mental images (//nimittas//) during longer periods of calm. The real level of samadhi -- the deep stage which is necessary -- is the third. The mind (//citta//) drops down to the level of the heart; there is then the experience of knowing, but having no specific object present. This is one of the happiest states one will ever find one's life, if the state can be attained. From this level of concentration one comes out of it and directs the mind toward contemplation of the body.
The object is to overcome //kilesas// (defilements) which lead us to do the wrong things. We overcome the kilesas by seeing them. However, only a well-concentrated mind can provide the basis to see deep-rooted kilesas. A teacher is valuable in developing the proper level of concentration. Self-reliance, minimal socializing, and observance of monks and temple rules receive emphasis in the practice here.
TEACHING METHOD: Ajahn Maha Bua rarely gives talks due to his age but he does meet with visitors in the morning and answers questions. Some of his talks have been translated into English and published in a series of books available at the wat; //Forest Dhamma// has a fairly complete description of the meditation instructions in English. Guidance in this meditation system of Ajahn Maha Bua is provided primarily by Ajahn Pannavaddho, probably the most senior western monk in Thailand.
TEACHERS: Ajahn Maha Bua, abbot (Thai; age 77)
Ajahn Pannavaddho, vice abbot (English; age 65)
LANGUAGE: Ajahn Maha Bua speaks a little English. Ajahn Pannavaddho speaks English and Thai.
DESCRIPTION: A quiet, forested area of 160 rai (64 acres). Ajahn Maha Bua has chosen to keep the wat simple with a large wooden sala as the only major structure.
SIZE: monks: 35-45; novices: about 5; nuns: occasionally a few; laypeople: 5-30
DAILY ROUTINE: Besides pindabat and the morning meal, the community gets together for cleaning in and around the sala in the morning, then for sweeping and water hauling in the afternoon. Each person practices on his own for most of the day. The only regular group meeting is the fortnightly //Patimokkha// for monks.
FOOD: Very good northeastern and Bangkok styles. Monks and novices go on pindabat in Ban That, then eat one meal. Additional food comes from the kitchen and visiting supporters. Resident laymen can eat in the main sala with the monks and novices. Women eat in the women's area. Drinks and sweets are served in the early afternoon.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Everyone stays in well-separated kutis or in a //lan// (small roofed platform in the forest). Women live in a separate area of the wat. Some kutis have attached bathrooms or one can bathe at wells. Toilets are Asian-style. Generally no running water or electricity is available.
WRITE IN ADVANCE?: Not needed. Try to avoid arriving on religious holidays, especially those on weekends, and during the Rains Retreat.
ORDINATION: Not available
OTHER INFORMATION: The popularity and renown of Ajahn Maha Bua and his wat, together with limited space, make long-term stays difficult. Laypeople usually can stay up to 2-3 weeks; extensions can be requested. Monks and novices can visit only for short periods too. You can get directions to other wats that use the same meditation system; you'll need to speak Thai at these. Ajahn Maha Bua practiced under the meditation master Ajahn Mun for 9 years; he later wrote a biography of his teacher (see Recommended Reading).
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WAT HIN MAAK PENG
MEANING OF NAME: It refers to 3 large rocks beside the river shaped like measuring weights once used in Thailand.
ADDRESS: Tambol Pra Putabat, Amper Si Chiangmai, Nong Khai 43130
DIRECTIONS: Located on the banks of the Maekhong River, 655 km northeast of Bangkok. The temple is 68 km west of Nong Khai, the provincial capital. The town of Si Chiangmai, 18 km east of the wat, has bus connections with Nong Khai, Udon Thani, Khon Kaen, Nakhon Ratchasima, and Bangkok. The overnight tour bus from Bangkok run by Baramee Tour goes all the way to the wat if there are 8 or more passengers headed there. You can also take trains to Nong Khai or fly to Udon Thani (91 km from the wat). Songtaews go to Wat Hin Maak Peng from Si Chiangmai; other songtaews and local buses can drop you off at the gate, then it's half a kilometer walk in.
TELEPHONE: (042) 451-110
MEDITATION SYSTEM: Anapanasati (mindfulness with breathing), mental repetition of "Buddho," or //maranasati// (recollection of death) is used to develop concentration along with mindfulness. One then uses this "mind strength" to investigate the body and know its true characteristics. From this knowledge, the mind becomes free from clinging.
TEACHING METHOD: Everyone is free to follow their own meditation system. Instruction is available mainly through books and tapes. Luang Poo Tate and other senior monks will answer questions. Mindfulness and observance of disciplinary code and temple rules are important in practice.
TEACHER: Luang Poo Tate, abbot (Thai; age 89)
LANGUAGE: The vice abbot, Ajahn Pichit, and a few other monks speak English; they can translate and answer questions. Luang Poo Tate meets with visitors and answers their questions in Thai. He no longer gives talks, but his books (in Thai and English) and recordings of Dhamma talks (Thai) are available.
//The Autobiography of a Forest Monk//, by Venerable Ajahn Tate, recently became available in an English version, edited by Bhikkhu Ariyesako. Luang Poo Tate conveys much wisdom to the reader through stories and lessons from his life. The 314-page book is in libraries and available for free distribution from the monastery.
DESCRIPTION: Many large, attractive buildings perched on the banks of the Maekhong River, opposite Laos. Scenic and quiet location with trees and bamboo groves. On entering the wat, you'll come to guest houses for laypeople on the right, the //bot// (uposatha hall) on the right, the abbot's residence on the right, then the main sala on the left. Monks and novices stay in kutis beyond the main sala. Ask one of monks in the main sala if you would like to stay or if you have questions.
SIZE: monks: 35-50; novices: 5-12; nuns: 6-20; laypeople: 15-30
DAILY ROUTINE: A typical daily schedule begins with a bell at 3 a.m. for individual meditation practice (optional); 6:30 a.m. monks and novices go on pindabat; 7:30 a.m. monks and novices chant (usually in uposatha hall); 8 a.m. meal for monks, novices, and pakows in main sala (laypeople sit opposite and chant); 9 a.m. laypeople eat; 3 p.m. work period (sweeping and other chores); 4 p.m. drink; 4:30 p.m. work period (cleaning main buildings); 7 p.m. chanting in main sala; 8-10 p.m. meditation in uposatha hall.
FOOD: Very good Bangkok-style. Monks and novices go on pindabat for rice; most food comes from the kitchen and donors. Laypeople eat leftovers after monks finish eating. (It's allowable for foreigners to set aside some leftovers before the chanting, as the Thai laypeople quickly scoop up everything in sight as soon as the chanting ends.)
ACCOMMODATIONS: Monks and novices have individual kutis, somewhat close together. Laypeople who come for meditation can stay in guest houses (shared rooms), separate buildings for men and women. Laymen can also ask for a kuti in the monks' area. Most kutis have screens, electricity, and attached bathrooms. Bathrooms have showers or tanks for bathing and Asian-style toilets.
WRITE IN ADVANCE?: Recommended. Write with your plans to stay andwhether or not you speak Thai.
ORDINATION: Foreigners usually ordain at Wat Bovorn in Bangkok. Ordination is possible at Wat Hin Maak Peng if one speaks fluent Thai. The usual procedure is to: (1) ask permission from Luang Poo Tate; (2) after acceptance as a layman, one learns chanting and the rules of conduct; (3) one takes the white robes of a pakow, continues training, and learns the ordination procedure; (4) bhikkhu ordination ceremony then takes place (novice if under age 20). Length of training depends on how quickly one learns; one year is average for Thai people.
OTHER INFORMATION: Luang Poo Tate practiced under the famous Ajahn Mun for 9 years. He later founded this monastery on a site that had been popular with monks on tudong. Almost all monks here spend time on tudong.
Some malaria exists, so one needs to be careful to use repellent or netting from dusk to dawn. Visiting monks and novices who plan to spend more than 14 days need a letter of permission from their monastery. Laypeople should observe 8 precepts, respect rules, be self-reliant and motivated, and be quiet (socializing is discouraged). Women stay in their area except for some group chantings, meeting with a teacher, making offerings (//dana//), or paying respect to monks. Women should speak at least a little Thai.
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