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CENTRAL THAILAND - 2
SORN-THAWEE MEDITATION CENTRE
MEANING OF NAME: "Sorn" is the person who donated the land; "Thawee" is the founder and head teacher at the centre.
ALSO SPELLED: Samnak Vipassana Sorn-Thawee
ADDRESS: Bangkla, Chachoengsao 24110
DIRECTIONS: From Bangkok, take a bus to Chachoengsao from either Northern (Moh Chit) or Eastern (Ekamai) bus terminals. Then take a bus toward Bangkla; get off after about 25 min. (just past KM post 17) where the bus turns left at Bangkla Crossing; walk across the highway and follow the intersecting road south 300 meters, then turn right another 300 meters at the sign.
MEDITATION SYSTEM: Vipassana, practice of the Four Foundations of Mindfulness. Techniques using the tool of mental noting are similar to those taught by Mahasi Sayadaw. Formal sitting and walking meditation is done 8-12 hours a day. Mindfulness is applied to all of one's daily activities. One must practice systematically through waking hours in order to develop the concentration needed for effective insight meditation.
TEACHING METHOD: Daily individual interviews are considered essential. Meditators report previous day's experiences, then receive instruction and guidance.
TEACHERS: Phra Ajahn Thawee, abbot (Thai; age 76) and a Western nun (Austrian) teach foreigners.
LANGUAGE: English and German are always available.
DESCRIPTION: Attractively landscaped grounds of 24 rai (10 acres) with ponds, trees, and colorful shrubs. Rice fields surround the centre.
SIZE: monks: 15-22; novices: usually 0; nuns: 20-30; laypeople: 40-50; A new Dhamma Hall has 70 rooms for meditators.
DAILY ROUTINE: 4 a.m. wakeup; 6:30 a.m. breakfast; 7:30 a.m. individual interviews begin; 11 a.m. lunch. Day is spent in or near one's kuti doing intensive individual practice. Meditators should not sleep more than 6 hours. No group practice is offered.
FOOD: Good quality and variety; vegetarian is available on request. Two meals are served in the morning. Meditators eat mindfully in their kutis. The community eats as a group on special occasions.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Individual kutis with screens, fans, electricity, and attached bathrooms with running water. Older kutis have Thai-style bathrooms; newer kutis have western-style facilities.
WRITE IN ADVANCE?: Yes, necessary to arrange accommodations.
ORDINATION: Not available
OTHER INFORMATION: Only individual (solitary) practice is offered at present; this isn't for everyone as some people feel the need for the support of group practice. A Dhamma hall under construction is expected to open in 1993; check with the centre then to find out if group practice will be offered. The usual retreat duration is 50 days; 20 days is the minimum recommended stay. Visits of less than 2 weeks don't allow enough time to develop insight and won't be allowed. Meditators observe 8 precepts, keep noble silence (especially not to talk about one's meditation experiences with others), wear loose-fitting, modest clothing, and abstain from reading, writing, or listening to radios. A blanket or light sleeping bag is needed in the cool season. A 50 baht (US $2) daily fee covers running expenses.
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BOONKANJANARAM MEDITATION CENTER
MEANING OF NAME: "Boon" Charoenchai and his wife "Kanjana" donated the land in 1963 for an //aram// (wat).
ADDRESS: Pattaya, Chonburi 20260
DIRECTIONS: Located in Jomtien Beach, 5 km south of Pattaya. From Bangkok, take a bus from the Eastern (Ekamai) Bus Terminal to Sattahip and get off at Wat Boonkanjanaram, just past KM post 150, then walk down Wat Boon Road alongside the wat; entrance to the meditation center is a short way beyond the wat grounds. If you take a bus to Pattaya, hire a songtaew to the center.
TELEPHONE: (038) 231-865
MEDITATION SYSTEM: Vipassana, based on the Four Foundations of Mindfulness using techniques taught by Ajahn Naeb. Unlike other vipassana systems that begin with mindfulness of breathing, the method taught here proceeds directly to mindfulness of the Four Foundations (//satipatthana//): body (//kaya//), feeling (//vedana//), mind (//citta//), or mind object (//dhamma//). The body (//kaya//) makes the best object to start with for nearly all people because of its gross, easily observed qualities. The meditator applies steady mindfulness to his body in the 4 basic positions of sitting, standing, walking, and lying and in the minor positions. The purpose of the meditation is to destroy wrong views about self, eliminate liking and disliking, realize the Four Noble Truths, and end suffering. When pain is noticed, the position is changed and the pain is followed into the next position. As practice becomes more proficient, the Three Characteristics of impermanence (//anicca//), suffering (//dukkha//), and not self (//anatta//) will become more evident. //Rupa// and //nama// (material and mental factors) are seen as impermanent because they cannot stay the same. Rupa and nama are seen as suffering because the position is suffering. Rupa and nama are seen as not self, because whatever is impermanent and suffering is without self. As practice deepens it is seen with insight that rupa and nama are not self, not "me." This wisdom can have a very strong effect. When the Three Characteristics are seen in rupa and nama, wisdom is going to feel disenchantment with rupa and nama. This is the path to realize nibbana according to the meditation system. Before one begins practice, one must understand some theory. This requires more study than most meditation techniques. The meditation system taught here also has a reputation for being more difficult than breathing-based systems.
TEACHING METHOD: Interviews with teacher. A single beginning student would be taught alone; if more than one beginner is at the center, they would be grouped together. Beginners usually have daily interviews at first, then less often as determined by the teacher. Although instructions are in book form, it is considered valuable to have a "good friend" or teacher.
TEACHERS: Mr. Chua Jantrupon (Thai; age 86) assisted by Miss Vitoon Voravises (translator) and Frank Tullius (a long-time American practitioner at the center).
LANGUAGE: English translation is available (the teacher does not speak much English). Frank Tullius also can provide instruction and advice. The book //Vipassana Bhavana//, published by the center, has detailed information on theory, practice, and result of the meditation system used here; the book is sold at the center (by mail order too) and at some bookstores in Bangkok and Chiang Mai; a French edition is available at the center.
DESCRIPTION: The meditation center covers 22 rai (8.5 acres) in an old coconut grove with grass, bamboo, and a variety of trees. Facilities include 51 kutis, a small temple, a dining area for monks, and a kitchen. The center operates independently from nearby Wat Boonkanjanaram for the most part.
SIZE: monks: 5-15; novices: occasionally a few nuns: 5-15; laypeople: 4-8
DAILY ROUTINE: None, except for meals and interviews. Practice schedule is left up to meditator.
FOOD: Good quality and variety; vegetarian is available on request. Food is brought to kutis at 7 a.m., 11 a.m., and 5 p.m. (people on 8 or more precepts just take the morning meals); an afternoon drink is offered too. Monks and novices go on pindabat. Normally everyone eats mindfully at their kuti; monks and novices sometimes eat as a group when food is specially offered.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Individual kutis with screens, fans, electricity, porches, and Thai-style bathrooms (some have western-style toilets) with running water. Moderately well spaced.
WRITE IN ADVANCE?: Yes, needed in order to arrange accommodations.
ORDINATION: Not available
OTHER INFORMATION: Ajaan Naeb (1897-1983), a Thai laywoman, had a deep experience of no self at the age of 34. She then sought out someone who could teach her //vipassana-kammathana.// She practiced under the Burmese monk Pathunta U Vilasa and realized nibbana. She then turned her attention to study of abhidhamma and became an expert on Buddhist philosophy. For 40 years she taught vipassana at many centers, including Boonkanjanaram. No group practice is offered. Meditators must be highly self-reliant and motivated to practice successfully. They are advised to keep noble silence with each other and abstain from reading (other than about practice) and listening to the radio. Two weeks is the recommended minimum stay. Six other centers in Thailand teach the same meditation system, though usually only in Thai. A 50 baht (US $2) daily charge is made for running expenses.
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WAT SAI NGAM
MEANING OF NAME: "Temple of beautiful banyan trees"
ALSO SPELLED: Wat Trai Ngarm
ADDRESS: Tambon Donmasang, Amphoe Mueang, Supanburi 72000
DIRECTIONS: From Bangkok, take a bus from the Northern (Moh Chit) Bus Terminal to Supanburi, 100 km to the northwest, then take a local bus northeast 15 km on the road to Ang Thong. The wat is 0.5 km in.
TELEPHONE: (035) 522-005
MEDITATION SYSTEM: Ajahn Dhammadharo developed a vipassana technique using hand movements that gave good results in his practice. After 9 years of using this method, he felt confident in teaching it to others. Sitting meditation typically begins with some metta practice (benefits include helping to clear the mind of hindrances) followed by anapansati (to calm the mind). One then begins the prescribed hand and finger movements, using either arm, while directing attention to the palm or fingers. Sensations arising in the hand, then extending along the arm to the chest, back, and head are used in development of clear comprehension leading to penetrating insight. Touch-point sensations are used too. The meditation system instructions have been translated into English in the book //The Manual of Insight Meditation; Practising Clear Comprehension in Accordance with the Maha Satipatthana Sutta// by Pannavuddho Bhikkhu; this book should be available at the wat.
TEACHING METHOD: Lectures (occasionally by Ajahn Dhammadharo) and by asking questions. Books and tapes in Thai can be purchased, as can the English book by Pannavuddho.
TEACHERS: Ajahn Dhammadharo, abbot (Thai; age 78) assisted by senior monks.
LANGUAGE: One should speak good Thai in order to take advantage of the teachings here. Some monks and nuns can speak a little English.
DESCRIPTION: A large temple of 70 rai (28 acres) surrounded by rice fields. Trees shade the central area. On arrival at the main entrance, you'll find the office in the raised building on the left just past the abbot's house; the large sala ahead, also on stilts, is used for eating and meditation; turn left at the junction and follow the path for the //bot//, exceptionally beautiful even by high Thai standards. The Buddha image inside sits in a teaching pose under a large artificial tree.
SIZE: monks: 150-200; novices: 15-20; nuns: 80-100; laymen: about 10; laywomen: 20-30
DAILY ROUTINE: 4 a.m. chanting in "bot;" 5 a.m. monks and novices leave for pindabat by bus; 8 a.m. first meal; 11 a.m. second meal; 2-4 p.m. sitting and standing meditation; 4-5 p.m. walking meditation; 5 p.m. drink; 6:30 p.m. sitting and standing meditation; 8 p.m. lecture; 9-10 p.m. walking meditation.
FOOD: Good quality and variety. Monks and novices take a temple bus to Supanburi, Ang Thong, or other nearby town for pindabat; laypeople are welcome to come along and help collect food. Two meals in morning; nuns and laypeople eat after monks and novices.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Monks and novices stay in individual kutis of stone or wood; fairly close together. All have electricity and running water; newer kutis have Thai-style bathrooms. Laymen have shared rooms or dormitories; nuns and laywomen usually share rooms.
WRITE IN ADVANCE?: Not necessary
ORDINATION: Can be requested for novice, monk, or maechee.
OTHER INFORMATION: Ajahn Dhammadharo began teaching about 1954. His first center was Wat Chai Na (Wat Tow Kote) in Nakhon Sri Thammarat Province in the south. In the 1970s he moved to his home province and founded Wat Sai Ngam. Discipline is left mostly to the individual. Laypeople observe 8 precepts and wear white; they also wear a white sash over their shoulder. The sash (//pah sabay chieng//) can be purchased in the temple shop. Unless entering or leaving the temple grounds, residents walk barefoot everywhere.
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